Toile de Jouy - that French fabric with farm scenes or happy women on swings has its beginnings in Ireland - not France - with a German textile maker.

Ode to Jouy In a little town near Versailles called Jouy, a pretty printed fabric that is synonymous with French style is made. However, our story doesn't begin in this town or even in France. For the origin of Toile de Jouy, we have to visit Ireland and the inspiration of a Franco-German textile maker. Toile comes from the French word meaning "linen cloth" or "canvas." It can refer to the fabric, itself, or a test garment made from simple cotton material. What we think of as toile - printed fabric depicting pastoral scenes in one color on a white background - was originally produced in Ireland in the mid 18th century. It was so popular that the fabric trend quickly spread to Britain and France. From there, it became all the rage in Colonial America thanks to Ben Franklin's gift to his wife of a bolt of toile. Everyone had to have it. But it was a German-born textile producer working in France who truly perfected the French fabric. In 1760, Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf took his skills learned in his family's dye and print business and established his own shop in Jouy-en-Josas along the Bièvre river southeast of Paris. His perfect timing is linked to the lifting of the French ban on Indian cotton in 1759. For almost 100 years prior, France had blocked the heavily imported cotton brought to Europe via the East India Company because it threatened local textile industries that used silk, linen, and wool.  Printed fabrics did exist in France at the time but they were not colorfast, color secured by a fixative such as salt. You could not wash the fabric or you would lose the pattern. Not very practical. Indian printed textiles were inexpensive, hard-wearing, and the colors remained after being laundered. Despite the government's ban, the highly sought-after fabric was smuggled in and prized, no doubt also due to the forbidden aspect of the product. Eventually, the government gave in and printed cotton became the fabric of choice. Oberkampf discovered his own method of making the colors permanent and he developed the process of using engraved metal presses instead of carved wooden blocks to print the scenes. Now, the fine detail would be transferred to the fabric. His business flourished. Voilà! The toile de Jouy fabric that we know and love (or hate) today was established. An early print from Oberkampf and Huet, “La Ballon de Gonesse”, depicts Jacques Charles and Nicolas Robert in their hydrogen balloon over the Tuileries Gardens. Textile makers took their cues from engravers for their fabrics. Historical moments such as scientific advancements were themes used in addition to the pastoral scenes. (From a fabric remnant in the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection.) Oberkampf and his designer, Jean-Baptiste Huet, were greatly influenced by early 18th-century Rococo art. Soft colors, scenes of nature, and light-hearted pastimes moved from Parisian paintings to their printed fabric. Together, the team produced more than 30,000 patterns by the time of Oberkampf's death in 1815. Along with the idyllic, romantic landscape scenes, toile patterns were used to tell a story. Some referenced tales of European mythology or captured major events of the time. The popularity of toile de Jouy grew and other printing companies joined the "craze" throughout France. In the late 18th century, toile was the official fashionable choice for both interiors and clothing. Even Marie-Antoinette visited Oberkampf's factory in 1781. Oberkampf did not have a copyright on his patterns so his designs were copied on everything from china to wallpaper on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean. A little bit of toile goes a long way. Find a bit in my vintage fabric and sewing bundles available in Le Shop. Most importantly, toile patterns were used to tell a story.  I'm not a fan of a room filled with toile - the wallpaper, bed linens, curtains all in the same, over-powering pattern. But I'm a sucker for a vintage fabric remnant with sheep, goats, or chickens. The front of a pillow or a seat cover on a small chair will do for me. More than 250 years later, toile de Jouy patterns still have a following.  Today's designs are often more minimalist with bigger patterns and bolder colors. But their enduring appeal ties back to the fact that the fabric tells a story. For a moment or two, you get lost in the scene and you have a sense that this is more than just a simple, printed cotton. It feels special. It's French - timeless, elegant, and something to savor.   May your upcoming week be filled with a bit of French flair. À bientôt mon amie, Karen 😊🐑💕🇫🇷