Living a French Life

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Your Weekly Voilà: Explore the city of Nîmes and Her Roman Past 💕✨🇫🇷

 
La chaleurAn extreme heat wave took over all of France this July and August. Here in the southwest, temperatures in the high 30s Celsius (high 90s Fahrenheit) are not uncommon in the summer. But usually those unbearable hot days last for only a short time. Relief comes in the form of a summer storm bringing with it cooler weather. Long-time locals state they have never seen such unrelenting high temperatures. We have had extreme heat and no rain for two months and France is facing her worse drought ever. The consensus is that oppressive heat and dry conditions might be the summertime norm. I hope not. La chaleur drains my energy and saps my creative juices. Hence, the infrequent Weekly Voilàs this summer. Plus, our home restoration project is moving slowly as we navigate the hot afternoons.

But this week, the sky opened up and we had a bit of rain for two days and the temperatures dropped into the very comfortable range. I'm back writing and Tim is finishing up our staircase so we can access the first floor (second floor in the U.S.). Despite the heat, we know that cold weather will be upon us fairly soon and we want to be ready for winter. The garden hose will not do as a shower in late September.
August is also the time of les vacances in France. We're enjoying family visiting from Alsace and my son joined us for his vacation from the Netherlands. August has gone by very quickly.

In the South of France, Provence and the Côte d'Azur are topping the thermometer in the high 40s or well over 100° degrees Fahrenheit! Beaches along the Mediterranean are even more crowded than usual as locals and tourists try to escape the heat of August. I might suggest May or September as better months to visit this region due to the hordes and hot weather.

Last year in July, my son and I joined our French family to swim in the sea and explore the history of ancient Gaul and the conquest by the Roman Empire. You have to head south for the best examples of temples, amphitheaters, aqueducts, roads, arches, monuments, mosaics, and fabulous remnants of ancient daily life. No matter the weather, the sights do not disappoint.

Here, the Romans began their annexation around 125 BCE, decades before Julius Caesar brought the rest of Gaul under his control. In this region, archeologists and historians pieced together a story that illustrates a blend of two cultures. Think ancient Rome with a French twist. This new lifestyle left a permanent imprint that is still a part of both cultures.

One could make an argument that the epicenter of Roman Gaul can be found in the city of Nîmes. It was one of the largest cities in the empire. Like Rome, it was built on seven hills. Built during the reign of the Emperor Augustus in the 1st century CE, Nîmes' amphitheater, although heavily restored, is well preserved. Unlike Rome’s Colosseum, where cars and buses roar past it, traffic is restricted around the Arena, providing a more tranquil and reflective experience. You work your way through a maze of stone stairways and corridors to find the unusually shaped elliptical amphitheater. It is a perfect oval measuring 133 meters long and 101 meters wide. You can imagine the canvas canopy that provided spectators protection from the sun, the cries of the crowd that could number 24,000, separated by social status, and the gladiators and animals doing battle below.

In the 6th century, Nîmes' amphitheater was turned into a fortress under the Visigoths. The town's inhabitants could come for shelter when under attack. By the 12th century, the Arena transformed into a chateau for the Viscount of Nîmes and a small residential neighborhood grew inside its walls. In the 18th century, around 150 houses remained inside the amphitheater. In 1786, they were demolished to revert the site back to its original Roman grandeur.

As you walk along the cobble-stoned streets of Nîmes, you'll find the city's symbol: a crocodile wrapped around a palm tree. It strikes one as odd given that crocodiles do not exist in France. But the Romans in 31 BCE conquered Egypt and they commemorated the victory in a coin created in Nîmes.

In 1535, King François I declared the crocodile the town's coat of arms.  

From the amphitheater, you can meander along the quaint streets to the Maison Carrée, an almost perfectly preserved Hellenistic-style temple. The temple has occupied the center of Nîmes for more than 2,000 years. Constructed at the southern end of the forum of the Colonia Aususta Nemausus, it faced the curia, the place of deliberation of the municipal assembly.

The Maison Carrée is a jewel of Roman architecture in France. Its recent restoration has given back the structure its ancient magnificence. I might even say that it is the best-preserved temple of Roman antiquity. The limestone on the south side shines so brightly in the afternoon sun that some locals complain that it looks too new.

The temple was built with the participation of local inhabitants who wanted to show their support for the new Roman regime and their attachment to Emperor Augustus. Unfortunately, the inside of the building has been converted to a movie theatre where visitors can pay to see an average 22-minute film of Nîmes’ earliest history. However, it does show the development of the alliance between the Gauls and the Romans.

The Maison Carrée adapted to change throughout the centuries. It has been a royal residence at the end of the Middle Ages, a property of Augustinian monks who installed a church inside, and a museum since the mid-19th century.

It's an easy drive from Nîmes to the Pont du Gard aqueduct. With its three tiers of receding arches, it is the highest Roman bridge-aqueduct in the world. Find a perch on the bank of the river Gardon and take in the grace of this 1st-century aqueduct’s architecture and the genius of its engineering.

Taking 15 years to build, its blocks of limestone were pieced together without cement or mortar. Using gravitational force, the aqueduct carried water from Uzès to the fountains and bathhouses of Nîmes 30 miles away. It must have been awe-inspiring then, given that the small section that has survived is truly breathtaking. Three courses of arches, each smaller than the one below, move rhythmically across the gorge.

Make the climb up a winding dirt path to the top level of the aqueduct, which stands around 49 meters high, or 160 feet. Here, you'll find the covered culvert itself, in effect an aerial pipeline. Teams of slaves were required to walk its length to scrape off limescale from the walls.

From this vantage point, you can look down to the river where people fish for trout, kayaks move at an easy pace downstream, and swimmers find relief in the cool water.

The Pont du Gard is a technical and artistic masterpiece.
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The region surrounding Nîmes is the lesser known part of what we think of as the South of France. You won't find the best Mediterranean beaches or the "bling" of Saint Tropez. What you will find is history flowing through her picturesque streets and a refreshing laid-back, artsy vibe. Throw in the cities of Uzès and Arles and you'll be smitten. (Click here to learn more about Arles and her Roman past in an archived Weekly Voilà.)

Consider this region for your next visit to the South of France. Just don't come in the heat of August.

May you enjoy good weather this weekend,
Karen 🇫🇷
 
 
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Tim and I are thrilled to be featured in the current September/October issue of French Property News, formally known as French Entrée magazine. It was serendipity that brought us to the Little House at Glandines in le Lot. We are loving the restoration process AND we can't wait to have it done. I think we have another 12 months before we can call it finished, except for the punch list. Tim promises that the last episode of Season One will hit Living a French Life's YouTube channel in the next week. Then it is on to Season Two where we live within the renovation. Let me tell you. I'm ready for a proper shower ;) Join us for the adventure.

 

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Karen J. Kriebl, EI
Registered as an Entreprise individuelle in France SIRET No. 887 963 148 00028
Lieu-dit Glandines, 46270 Bagnac-sur-Célé, France