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Let's go deeper into La France Profonde. The department of Lozère, the least populated of all the French departments, is just 6 hours south of Paris, 3 hours from Toulouse, and 2 hours from Montpellier. I think it's France's best-kept secret. We're talking quiet charming villages, stunning diverse landscapes, and plenty of activities for those who enjoy the outdoors.
After taking in the quiet atmosphere, one feels Lozère's seemingly impervious attitude to change. Nestled into secret valleys, surrounded by sprawling plateaus and rugged limestone peaks, the region has preserved its way of life. Ancient hamlets are tucked along the Tarn River; many can only be accessed by boat. Medieval villages, wedged into the hillsides, dot the winding road along the river. Surrounded by the Causses, or a series of very dry limestone plateaus, the department is often described as "being in the middle of nowhere but in a good way."
I think that's a fitting description.
The Tarn River cut through the limestone landscape of the Grands Causses, creating the dramatic canyon that is the Gorges du Tarn. The best way to experience the scenery is to explore the river by canoe, kayak, or allow a batelier or boatman to take you on a guided tour. Les Bateliers have provided tourists with a unique view of the gorges for over 150 years.
It's hard to believe that anywhere in France could be overlooked. But Lozère offers something its provençal neighbors cannot: A quiet taste of the "real" France, free from the stifling summer crowds. It's more affordable, offers unfiltered terrain, and an authentic French country experience.
Lozère is known for its high plateaus. Vast expanses of meadows and pastures offer breathtaking panoramic views of the Tarn and Jonte Gorges. These spectacular canyons offer a paradise for hikers and water sport enthusiasts. The area seems unspoilt and rural, but there's a sophisticated undercurrent you find in its medieval villages' architecture and history.
From prehistoric times through Roman occupation, the medieval era, the religious wars, the French Revolution, and into modern times, Lozère, despite its relative remoteness, played a dramatic role in the evolution of modern France. Here, the Gauls battled Caesar's Roman legions. Protestant sects sought hidden refuge in the mountains during the religious wars of the 14th and 15th centuries. 18th-century Catholics, devoted to their religion and loyal to the crown, fought against the revolutionists and lost. The village of La Malène still bears the scars of the fires that ravaged the houses during the revolution.
As you drive or hike out of the Gorges du Tarn, you climb onto the Causses de Sauveterre, a part of the Grands Causses located in the southern part of the Massif Central. I recommend taking time to hike the plateau. It provides both amazing views and an easy walk through pastureland.
La Malène is an iconic village in the Gorges du Tarn. Known for its boatmen who offer relaxing and informative boat trips on the river, the village is also the starting and finishing point for canoeing and kayaking tours. The small village is home to the Manor of La Malène, which dates to the 15th century. Louis XII ordered the castle to be razed, but thanks to services rendered by its owner, the mansion was spared. It has since been transformed into a hotel and restaurant.
There is also a lovely Romanesque church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste from the 12th century. And the oldest known castle in France, the ruins of Castel Merlet. All make La Malène a worthy stop for lunch or a home base if you are staying in the area for a few days.
A land of secret valleys, wild pastures, and tiny hamlets balanced on ridges and tucked within the hillsides. Each has its own story to tell.
The hamlet of Hauterives is only accessible by way of a footpath or by boat from the river. Goods are transported to inhabitants via a small basket that goes over the river along a line. You can just make out the line in the photo above on the left. This is a very old hameau, that existed long before the road. Thus, settling on the left bank or the right bank of the Tarn was of no importance, since the villages all had to be accessed by the river or by foot, descending from the Causses or high plateaus above.
Sainte-Enimie is a medieval gem of the Gorges du Tarn. She captivates her visitors with her cobbled streets, stone houses, and Benedictine abbey. Listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France, Sainte-Enimie owes its name to the legend of the Merovingian Princess Énimie, believed to be cured of leprosy by the waters of the Burle spring in the 8th century.
To celebrate her miracle, she founded two monasteries, one male and one female. They were destroyed by invasions. The Bishop requested that a Benedictine monastery be built there, which was completed in 951. It became a popular pilgrimage destination due to the story surrounding its founding. During the French Revolution in 1798, the monastery was destroyed and the town was renamed Puy Roc; however, this lasted only a short time.
In 1905, a road was built along the Tarn River, giving the village greater commercial exposure. By the 1950s, Sainte-Enimie's economy had grown due to increased tourism.
As you wander through the village of Sainte-Enimie, you follow the worn cobblestones of the monks' path starting from the late Romanesque Notre Dame du Gourg church and moving along medieval alleyways with their half-timbered houses.
The church of Notre-Dame-du-Gourg was built in the 12th century outside the monastery walls. It was intended for parishioners. Remodeled in the 14th century, its architectural elements are typical of a Romanesque church. Several chapels were added over the centuries.
Even at the height of the summer season, you'll have the village mostly to yourself. The streets are quiet, yet you'll find cafés and boutique shops filled with local goods. I think the most crowded spot we found was a tiny pottery shop that was filled with folks purchasing the artist's wares.
It's a maze of medieval streets that you can easily explore and enjoy the architecture. What seemed like a dead end brought us to the most fabulous Renaissance door. Just to its right was a tiny alley that brought us to the large and open monastery square. A crêpe and cider were waiting for us at the top.
A demi-liter of cider and a savory galette make for an affordable and delicious déjeuner. You truly do not have to spend a lot to dine with the locals and take in the surroundings.
In a tiny square stands the Wheat Hall, where one of the last stone grain measures can still be found. See it just to the right of the picture above; it's that hole in the wall. Below the grain measure, you find a stone that captures the measured grain and funnels it into sacks.
Located at the bottom of the village just behind the Tourist office (where you can pick up an informative map of the village), the Burle spring is at the heart of Sainte-Enimie's story. Its constant flow connects the Causse de Sauveterre to the Gorges du Tarn. A path allows you to circle the spring and take in what feels like a magical place. It's deeper than it first appears because most of it is underground. The water is a beautiful, albeit unusual shade of green due to the presence of manganese in the water. Many come to the spring and gather water at the pump. Tradition holds that the water can cure skin ailments.
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Fortunately, Tim and I don't have to travel far to explore the deep French countryside. Our best advice for when you make this region your destination is not to rush your visit. Take time to head north of the Gorges du Tarn to the region of Aubrac. Known for its beautiful cows and culinary delights, you can enjoy a leisurely lunch of aligot or cheesy potatoes in an old buron. Imagine a time when shepherds took refuge in these small one-room houses that were used to make and store cheese, or to shelter from the burle or fearsome west wind. But that's a story for another Weekly Voilà.
À la prochaine fois,
Karen 🇫🇷
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