Living a French Life

Celebrating the art of French style for everyday living 

Your Weekly Voilà: Who doesn't want to dunk a rose cookie into a glass of bubbly? 💕🍾🇫🇷
 
 
I found myself along the French Mediterranean coast last week for an impromptu vacation with family. We explored the Camargue, a delta created where the two Rhône rivers meet the sea. It's a place all its own with cowboys and flamingos coexisting. Prior, I spent most of my time in the Luberon region. I was delighted to explore some of the finest ancient Greco-Roman ruins and museums tucked in this part of Provence. Plenty of photos and travel suggestions to share in a future Weekly Voilà.

But for today . . . I promised something about dipping delicious rose biscuits into Champagne. A cookie just for sparkling wine. How French!
How could you not go into this shop upon discovering its pink facade and tantalizing treats in the window? It is a pink lover's dream.
Reims, just east of Paris, is the capital of France's Champagne region. Here you will find numerous Champagne houses such as Bollinger, Lanson, Pommery, and Veuve Clicquot. It is the city where French kings were crowned for more than 1,000 years. You'll find plenty of history, architecture, and gastronomic delights.

One, in particular, was invented around 1690. A local baker, whose name remains unknown to history, decided to make use of the heat that remained in his oven after he removed the bread. Using just a few ingredients, he created a sweet dough and then accidentally baked it twice, giving the bis cuit or "twice baked" cookie a crunch. This has the same meaning for the familiar Italian biscotti - bis cotto. After the first baking, the biscuits were topped with confectioners sugar and left in the bread oven, where they underwent a second baking and the sugar turned into a glaze. To the delight of all, the biscuits' crisp exterior held their shape when dipped in coffee, tea, and mais oui - Champagne! It is after all, Reims ;)

Originally, the biscuits were white and dotted with black specks from the scraped vanilla beans. Another baker decided that he wanted to mask the "imperfections" and colored the dough with carmine. Yep. An insect and relative of cochineal. Kermes live and feed on the leaves and branches of Mediterranean oak trees, known as Kermes oaks rather than cacti that their cousins prefer. This red coloring has been used since the ancient Egyptian time.

Voilà. The pink cookie from Reims was born.

In 1775, these pink biscuits were served during the coronation celebration of Louis XVI and they became an immediate success. The baker became the sole supplier to the king. As nobles were not known to keep a secret, the popularity of the cookie spread across Europe. In 1845, a Monsoir Fossier took over the bakery. Maison Fossier has been baking the prized biscuit ever since; the only bakery left in France that makes the Biscuits Roses de Reims. 
Entering Fossier you soon learn that the bakery makes more than just the crisp dunking cookie. They also make other sweet treats with their rose-colored flour, confitures, and candies. Their gift baskets are beautifully put together.
In French baking, just a few ingredients come together in a mysterious way to create the most interesting and delicious result. While the original recipe of Biscuits Roses de Reims is a carefully guarded secret by Fossier's bakery, the cookie consists of only eggs, flour, sugar, vanilla, and a rising agent. It is the preparation and technique that requires a certain expertise. You don't have to make a trip to Reims in order to enjoy Fossier's delicacies. You'll find them in specialty stores or you can order online. But why not try making a few at home? You can incorporate your biscuits into several different dessert recipes. Think of them as ladyfingers and use them in your Charlotte or Tiramisu. For me, I prefer the simple dunk in some bubbly and eat it quickly before it falls apart in my flute.

While your biscuits might not be exactly the same as the famous ones from Maison de Fossier, I'm pretty confident that they will be enjoyed by your family and guests. They do not last long in the tin - as if there are extras anyway - so I prefer the small-batch recipe below. They're perfect for your next potluck or something different to serve for an aperitif.
Biscuits Roses de Reims
2 large eggs, separated
2/3 cup (90 g) flour
1/2 cup (45 g) cornstarch
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar, divided
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt

Drop of red food coloring
Powdered sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 325 F (180 C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. (If you allow your dough to rest before baking, turn your oven on at that point.)

2. Shift together the flour, cornstarch, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.

3. Using a mixer, whisk the egg whites together at medium speed until opaque. Increase the speed to high and add 1/2 the sugar just a tablespoon at a time until you have a thick, glossy meringue.

4. In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks, the remaining 1/2 of the sugar, and vanilla on medium speed for 5 minutes. Add a drop or two of food coloring to give you your desired pink hue.

5. Add the meringue to the yolks and fold in gently until almost combined. Fold in half the dry ingredients and when almost blended, add the rest and finish incorporating.

6. Fill your pastry bag - no tip necessary. I find a ziplock bag with a small hole cut in one corner does the trick. Pipe out roughly 1 x 3-inch "fingers" spaced at least 1 inch apart. Sift confectioners' sugar generously over the cookies, leave 5 minutes, then sift a bit more sugar on top. I let the cookies "rest" for 30 minutes before popping them in the oven.


7. Bake for 12 minutes turning the tray 1/2 way through the baking time. I use a toothpick and bake until it comes out clean. Most importantly, do not let the biscuits brown! That soft pink color is everything.

8. Remove from the oven, allow to cool for a minute or so, sprinkle with more powdered sugar and return them to the oven for another 5-8 minutes. You can also turn off the oven, prop the door open a crack, and allow the biscuits to dry for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours in the oven.  This constitutes its second bake. 

Serve cooled with tea, coffee, hot chocolate, or  Champagne. 
There are some foods that are so particular to a region that they've become edible icons, representing a tradition and a way of life. Besides their texture and crunch, rose biscuits look so beautiful sitting on a handpainted French porcelain plate next to a glass of Champagne. They are only slightly sweet which makes them compatible with the sometimes way-too-dry bubbly of this region. Don't expect a cookie that knocks you over. It'a all about subtly and that beautiful color. C'est la manière française.
 
Enjoy a gastronomic tradition this weekend,
  
Karen 💕🍾🇫🇷
 
 
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