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My version of Kugelhopf melts in your mouth . . .
 
Emperor Frederick Barbarossa in the 12th century granted the potters and all their male descendants (sigh - not the daughters) of a small village in Alsace, Soufflenheim, the privilege of procuring all the clay and firewood from local forests necessary for making their pottery. As tradition holds, a potter was looking for clay in the woods near the village and saved the Emperor from an attack by a wild boar. This degree was the king's gift of thanks to the town. The tradition of making pottery by hand in Soufflenheim continues today. And within these earthen wares one can create some of the most delicious meals and desserts, including Alsace's famous cake - Kugelhopf or Kougelhopf.
Soufflenheim is located in the eastern region of France in Alsace, just northeast of Strasbourg. The town holds all the charm you would expect of an Alsatian village. The streets are lined with half-timbered homes, pottery workshops, boutiques, and restaurants. Artisans are still making pottery 900 years later.
My aunt is a fabulous cook of both French and German cuisine. She instructed me to "cure" my Alsatian pottery with milk before first use. Simply, fill the dish with milk and leave to rest for a few hours. The milk fats infiltrate any cracks in the glaze and seal them. Discard the milk (very happy kitties and pups), rinse with water (no soap), wipe dry. This technique will not alter the ware's finish. If cracks appear in the future, which happens with use over decades, just repeat the process with milk.

In terms of care with each use, the secret is to thoroughly butter the cake molds prior to filling with ingredients. If done properly, the cake will release without issue and you can wipe any excess butter off with a paper towel until next use. Be thorough. Any residue will go rancid. Avoid harsh dish soaps on any clay cookware as they can harm the glaze. Be sure to store your pottery in a well-ventilated area. I was told by an artisan in Soufflenheim that the pottery "comes from the earth just like us. It needs to breathe."

This week, I want to share my recipe for Kugelhopf. Traditionally, the cake is dry and dipped into your morning beverage before eating. It's not too sweet. Similar to brioche. Think more bread than cake. I prefer a kugelhopf that is a bit more moist when fresh and enjoy it for a simple dessert after a soup and salad dinner. If there is any left, it is perfect for dipping into my morning tea. Easy to find ingredients and not difficult to make. Just be sure not to overfill your molds so that the dough has room to expand. 

The ingredients are as followed:
  • 500g plain flour
  • 120g caster sugar (fine)
  • 120g unsalted butter, softened
  • 2 eggs lightly beaten
  • 250ml milk
  • 1 packet of vanilla sugar, or a couple of drops of vanilla extract
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 packet of yeast or 25 grams
  • Almonds, unsalted
  • Approximately 30 raisins soaked in rum (optional)
  • Powdered sugar (optional)
The recipe is straightforward. Just a simple bread dough:
  1. Warm the milk slightly and dissolve the yeast in it.
  2. Pour milk and yeast into a large mixing bowl and add the sugar, flour and salt on top without mixing. Leave in a warm place for approximately 1 hour.
  3. Add the eggs to the mixture and work the dough with your hands or a mixer with a dough paddle until soft and elastic.
  4. Incorporate the softened butter and beat the dough until it stops sticking to the bowl, appoximately 10 minutes.
  5. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and allow the dough to rise for 1 hour.
  6. Once the dough has risen, beat the mixture again to incorporate more air.
  7. Drain the raisins and roll them in a little flour, then carefully mix them through the dough.
  8. Allow the dough to rise again for 1 hour.
  9. Thoroughly butter your ceramic molds. (This recipe makes enough dough for two average sized Kugelhopf.) Place an almond into the bottom of each hole if your mold has them.
  10. Divide the dough into two pieces or keep as one if you have a large mold. Roll the dough into a ball and then shape into a bagel shape and press it into the shape of the mold.
  11. Leave to rise again with the cloth on top until it reaches the top of the mold.
  12. Bake at 180 C. / 356 F.  (150 C. / 300 F.  if convection) for 45-50 minutes. Note: It is best NOT to pre-heat your oven so not to "shock" your ceramic molds. They do not like to go from room temperature to too hot or from too hot to too cold. Baby them a little. They're worth it.
  13. If the top is browning too quickly, cover with aluminum foil. Remove from the oven and cool for 20-30 minutes. Carefully tip the mold and release the Kugelhopf. This is your moment of reckoning; for, if you buttered the mold well, the cake should come out easily. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.
All that is left is to slice and enjoy for breakfast or anytime. There is something so satisfying to use beautiful vintage kitchen tools that have stood the test of time and still produce delicious goodies to eat. Form and function. It is a beautiful thing. 
 
May your kitchen overflow this week with good food and good company,

À bientôt,
Karen


 

 

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